Ever an upbeat and welcoming presence, Pino Piano has been party to the ebb and flow of the Hong Kong restaurant industry over four decades. In the 1970s and ’80s, the ebullient Italian cut his teeth working for iconic figures on the London and New York dining scenes, before moving here to hold court at trendsetting establishments like Va Bene and, since 2001, Gaia.

How did your upbringing shape your personality and outlook on life?

My upbringing instilled in me the importance of hard work and being proud of any job you do. I also understood the value of being respectful towards others and thankful for what you have. The power of positive thinking was something I developed from a young age, too.

Why did you decide to pursue a career in the restaurant industry?

In a sense, catering runs in the family. My grandmothers were both excellent cooks – one worked with a private chef – and I learned a lot from them. At the same time, I always had the desire to travel and urge to experience different cultures and foods. I thought pursuing a career in the restaurant and hotel business would make it easier for me to do these.

Was it a difficult decision to leave Italy in 1974 at age 19 and move to London?

As much I love Italy, and our culture and food, I wanted a taste of life in other countries. London was my first stop, and almost everything was exciting – the wonderful memories from that time will stay with me forever. I was introduced to the world of contemporary and classical music, opera and theatre. It was magnificent to see the world-class actors, musicians and singers who performed in London. For a young person from Naples, this was an incredible experience.

What are your best memories of working in London?

London was the centre of almost everything in the mid ’70s – art, music, ballet, the most acclaimed theatre and musicals; it was all happening. My first job was at Neal Street Restaurant, in Covent Garden, which was owned by Terence Conran, so a lot of great artists would visit. Our incredible manager, Charles, was very well connected in British society and art circles, and the restaurant was often frequented by the aristocracy and members of the royal family. There was plenty of juicy gossip that I will never tell!

Why did you leave London for New York?

Again, my desire to travel took me to New York. I arrived in 1982 and was very lucky to work for one of the top restaurateurs in New York, the innovative Tony May, who together with a few others was instrumental in the renaissance of Italian cuisine in America. I spent seven years in the Rainbow Room kitchen. It was very demanding work but very enjoyable at the same time. It was an exciting and enriching experience.

Did you make the right decision coming to Hong Kong in the 1990s?

It was time to travel again, and in 1993 I was offered the position of manager/consultant at Va Bene, which had opened the year before in Lan Kwai Fong. It became the most popular hot spot in the city. They offered me a contract for a year, and I never went back.

Moving to Hong Kong was without question the best decision I ever made. This is where I have spent the most beautiful years of my life.

Was opening Gaia a bold move or had you always intended to establish your own restaurant?

It was a bold move. We opened the restaurant here in Sheung Wan in 2001, not knowing the area very well, although by then I had been in Hong Kong for quite a few years. We all decided to give it a try, and any fears we had soon went away because it became an instant success.

Gaia Ristorante was followed by Isola Bar & Grill in IFC and Joia in ICC. Since then, the Gaia Group has expanded rapidly, opening many other restaurants – Italian, Chinese, Japanese and, of course, the Greyhound Café chain. The group is owned and managed by David Cheung and Karen Ko with a dynamic team and has more than 50 restaurants, 30 free-standing restaurants, 36 brands and two food courts.

Why do you think diners return to Gaia time and again?

Gaia’s success has always been based on high-quality food, excellent service and a great atmosphere. Also, the al-fresco aspect helped us a lot because at the time there was no other restaurant in Hong Kong with this combination of inside and outside dining.

I am sure customers keep coming because of these reasons – essentially, the consistency of the food and the service, and the atmosphere that we create. Some of their favourite dishes have been on the menu from the beginning, including Vitello Tonnato (thin-sliced slow-cooked veal with tuna and anchovy sauce), Carne Cruda (beef tartare), Spaghetti con Gamberoni Rossi Piccanti (Mediterranean king red prawns and spicy tomato sauce), Linguine alle Vongole e Bottarga (Italian clams in white wine) and Cotoletta Primavera (crispy breaded veal Milanese).

Do you have a favourite dish, and how would you describe the perfect dining experience?

I enjoy all that we serve in Gaia, especially as it is prepared by our great Chef Alessandro [Tonin]. The perfect dining experience embodies good food, great wines and a fantastic atmosphere. 

How difficult were the Covid years, and how has the Hong Kong food and wine scene changed?

I think the Covid years were difficult for everyone; thankfully we came through and survived, as did many others. More broadly, the food and wine scene has changed tremendously in Hong Kong – but only for the better. One thing for certain is that restaurants keep opening.

Tell us about the special moments in your life and your plans for the future.

The age I am, I have had many great moments in my life. Hong Kong became my home and I stopped travelling. Of course, I still do travel, but not to go and stay permanently. 

One of the reasons I really love Hong Kong is the number of friends, good friends, that I have made over the years. It’s easy when you do a job like mine to make friends, and ones that last for 30 years. Even after such a long period of time, we are still friends.

One special moment in my life was about 20 years ago when I received the honour of Cavaliere del Lavoro, a knighthood given by the Italian government to those who have contributed to the improvement of Italian commerce. At Gaia, we buy Italian food, and we buy Italian wine.

Usually, this ceremony is held on 2 June [Italian Republic Day]. But that year, something happened and the medals didn’t arrive until months later. I suggested we have the ceremony in Gaia and we make a party of it. The Italian Consul General came with a big group. All my friends were here; we had about 100 people, and it was a very successful and memorable party. 

As for the future, I will keep going and stay healthy!