When you think of extravagance and splendour, the Mughal Empire immediately springs to mind, its legacy twinkling in the gems that adorn its history. From luxuriously carved turban ornaments to richly coloured necklaces dripping with lush stones, Mughal jewellery paints a picture of opulent artistry and cultural richness that continues to resonate today.

The Mughals were not just rulers; they were connoisseurs of beauty. Shimmering across South Asia from the 16th to the 19th centuries, the Mughal court was marked by an unmatched passion for the opulence of jewels. Exquisite diamonds, vibrant emeralds, luscious rubies and exceptional pearls were their treasures. These royal gemstones were not merely decorative; they represented power, wealth and artistry – a glimmering narrative of the greatness of an empire that once spanned present-day Afghanistan, Pakistan and Bangladesh as well as India and beyond.

The Mughal treasury was legendary, rumoured to contain inestimable riches in  gold, silver and jewels that would make even the wealthiest modern magnate gawk in admiration. The opulence was tangible; just consider the Peacock Throne, the 17th-century solid-gold and gem-encrusted seat of power of the fifth Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan. Deemed to be one of the wonders of the world, it symbolised absolute power and splendour.

The vastness of the Mughals’ wealth and the sheer artistry displayed in their treasures were the envy of all who came to pay their respects. In a practice as diplomatic as dazzling, intricate gem-studded jewels would be gifted to foreign dignitaries or presented as tokens of love in strategic alliances. Wealthy princesses were arrayed in priceless dowries to secure political ties, with exquisite pieces carefully chosen not just for beauty but also as measures of worth and influence.

Royal Bling

Mughal jewellery is a story woven in gold and gemstones. Each piece tells a tale of luxury, craftsmanship and the complexity of status. The jewels were powerful symbols, often displayed by emperors to signify their authority. Turban ornaments, for instance, nodded to royal lineage. The sarpech or jigha, crafted in gold and studded with brilliant stones, displayed elegance and functionality. The design often included a majestic feather and was reminiscent of the emperor’s sceptre.

Among the crowning glories of the era was the famous Great Mogul Diamond. Discovered amid the rich Golconda mines of southern India in 1650, this magnificent stone weighed a staggering 280 carats. Resembling half a chicken’s egg in size and shape, it was gifted by a wealthy general, Emir Jemla, to Shah Jahan. Tales swirl around this famous diamond, especially that of French traveller Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, who marvelled at its brilliance and sketched its image in 1665.

However, the diamond’s tale took a dramatic turn when it was looted by Persian ruler Nader Shah in 1739, along with the Peacock Throne, and disappeared into the pages of history. Some say it was later recut into the Orlov Diamond, a shard of Mughal majesty residing in the Russian imperial sceptre now displayed at the Kremlin.

Ornate Armoury

Not just about ornamentation, Mughal jewellery also served practical purposes. The bazuband, worn around the upper arm and adorned with gemstones, offered protection in battle while serving as an ornate declaration of wealth and prowess. Inherently functional yet intricately beautiful, items like dagger handles were crafted from precious metals, integrating luxury into everyday life. The Mughal armoury reflected not only martial readiness but also an appreciation for artistry that time has not forgotten.

Mughal jewellery often featured intricate designs inspired by nature, with symbols like the lotus – representing beauty and eternity – woven into their aesthetics. The appeal of gemstones also ran deep; with diamonds symbolising strength and emeralds embodying renewal, they were chosen as much for their physical beauty as for their spiritual significance.

Embedded Artistry

With unparalleled advancements in jewellery craftsmanship, the Mughal era is also synonymous with innovation. Techniques such as kundan, meenakari and jadau created masterpieces of unrivalled elegance. Kundan involved meticulous craftsmanship wherein gold foil secured stones in place, achieving a seamless finish and enhancing the brilliance of each gem.

Meenakari, or the enchanting art of enamelling, splashed vibrant colours across metal surfaces, depicting flower and fauna motifs that have become synonymous with Mughal aesthetics. Jadau, a technique of embedding stones within softened gold, ensured beauty and security in each piece, elevating the craftsmanship to new heights.

Visitors to London this month can revel in such marvels, as the V&A presents, until 5 May, an exhibition of The Great Mughals: Art, Architecture and Opulence, showcasing the extraordinary creativity and culture that characterised the reigns of emperors Akbar, Jahangir and Shah Jahan.

Resurgent Heritage

Fast forward to present day, Indian jewellery has been experiencing a renaissance. Over the past few years, a myriad of global celebrities, from Nicole Kidman and Madonna to Indian stars like Kareena Kapoor and Isha Ambani, have flaunted Indian designs, spotlighting the intricate craftsmanship and cultural wealth of the subcontinent. Modern jewellers, like the talented Hanut Singh, are skilfully combining traditional artistry with contemporary flair, creating dazzling pieces that appeal to a cornucopia of tastes.

This resurgence goes beyond mere aesthetics; it celebrates cultural representation and community pride while expanding markets and promoting unique narratives. The sustainable practices adopted by many current artisans resonate beautifully with today’s conscientious consumers, ensuring that Indian jewellery evolves without losing its deep-rooted essence.

Marriage of Extravagance

While the echoes of the Mughal era resonate through history, its artistic legacy remains on display at Indian weddings. Traditional wedding jewellery often embraces the Mughal essence. Today’s brides and grooms don majestic turban ornaments and treasured heirloom pieces that harken back t