Brunello di Montalcino reds from picturesque Tuscany are now some of the most sought-after wines in the world. The region has a long-standing tradition of viticulture, but its reputation for quality has really blossomed in the last few decades. At the core of this output is the Sangiovese Grosso grape, a varietal which thrives in the unique microclimate and soils of the area.

In Montalcino, a small, scenic hill town south of Siena surrounded by about 30,000 hectares of rolling hills, cultivation of grapes and olives has been practised for centuries. “The vineyard area of Montalcino is relatively small, only about 3,000 hectares where Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino are produced,” explains Margherita Mascagni, Sales Manager of Argiano, one of the region’s traditional estates. “What is special about Montalcino is that the purity of Sangiovese has been preserved in the appellations and this gives the wines a distinctive character.”

Sangiovese Savvy

As with any winemaking region, there is a combination of factors which make Brunello di Montalcino so prized. These are particularly favourable for the preservation of the purity of the local Sangiovese grape, known for its larger (grosso) berries. “Montalcino is so good because it has a special richness and variety of soils and microclimate which can express the sensitivity of Sangiovese,” notes Mascagni. Though wines of different styles are produced in this small area, “all express the best potential of the Sangiovese varietal”.

The rich composition of the soil is key in the depth of the Brunello di Montalcino flavour profile – a mixture of clay, limestone and marl. It is on the southern- and southwestern-facing slopes of the region’s vineyards that the grapes can fully ripen. Many are located at high altitude – between 200 and 600 metres above sea level – and thus enjoy a cooler climate. This helps to preserve the natural acidity of the grapes, aiding the balance and natural longevity of the wines.

Age Matters

The area produces two main wines, the flagship Brunello, and Rosso di Montalcino. The Rosso di Montalcino DOC (Controlled Denomination of Origin) was only established in 1984, partly to generate cash flow for the local estates since this wine can be released onto the market earlier: only a minimum of six months in oak barrels and one year ageing in total are required. It is made from 100% Sangiovese grown in the same region as the longer aged (two years in oak, four years total), more established and more prestigious Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Controlled and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin) reds.

According to Mascagni, Rosso boasts “the youngest, freshest expression” and is blessed with a “very easy drinking style”. On occasion, some producers will make only this wine instead of allocating some of their grapes to Brunello, especially in less than ideal vintages.

Similarly, Brunello comprises exclusively Sangiovese grapes, with no foreign varietals allowed in its production. Mascagni highlights how this wine has more structure and ageing potential, though she does point out that “most Brunellos are elegant and quite enjoyable when young”.

Brilliant Brunellos  

With its historic hill settlements, undulating terrain and dense lush forests, Mascagni not only adores the scenery in this part of Tuscany, but also the elegant Sangiovese wines that emerge from its cellars. Founded in 1580, Argiano is one of the oldest wine producers in Italy and she is partial to its style of Brunello particularly in recent years, with its “gentle extraction of tannins and expression of the limestone in the soil with a lot of savoury mineral taste and fresh fruit”.

After much deliberation, she names the estate’s Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Suolo as her favourite wine. It has a special floral touch at the nose, which makes it “always very recognisable in tastings, even right after the harvest”.

She notes, enthusiastically: “Old vines of 60 years give the wine a unique complexity of aromas, like Mediterranean orange-peel notes. Its soil of oceanic marl imparts a long, savoury finish and very elegant tannic structure.”